A Gentle Day In The Capertee Valley
Are you looking to explore the Capertee Valley without tackling the hiking trails ?
You’re in luck – there is so much more to discover beyond the beautiful bush trails !
Pearsons Lookout…. an easy drive-in lookout, showcases a stunning view into the Capertee Valley, and across to Pantoneys Crown.
There are many ways to enjoy all that Capertee and Capertee Valley has to offer: From the Glen Davis Shale Oil Ruins electric buggy or walking tour – to a leisurely morning tea at From the Paddock, or a taste of local whiskey at Craft Works Distillery, and a hearty lunch at the Capertee Royal Hotel, you’ll find plenty of ways to soak up the beauty and charm of this remarkable region….no hiking boots required !!
A glimpse into Glen Davis’ fascinating past – we meet here for our tour !
Tucked away in the breathtaking Capertee Valley, the world’s widest canyon, is a town with an incredible history… Glen Davis. The town was once a bustling industrial hub. In the late 1930s, the rich shale seams here were seen as the answer to securing local fuel supplies. So the Glen Davis Shale Oil Works, a grand venture, sprang to life in 1938, aiming to extract and process oil from shale rock.
Kerosene, produced from oil shale, was used extensively in the mid-nineteenth century and early twentieth century as a fuel for lighting homes and streets. With the advent of the motor car, crude oil came into demand as a fuel. By 1911, the sale of petrol surpassed sales of kerosene, as the fuel for most vehicles.
Despite the optimism, technical challenges and cheaper imported oil, meant that the plant struggled to be profitable. By 1952, the operation was shut down, leaving behind a remarkable collection of ruins slowly being reclaimed by nature.
Today, visitors can book a guided tour and marvel at the remnants of this ambitious chapter of Australian history, set against towering sandstone cliffs and abundant wildlife – a truly unique blend of industrial heritage and natural wonder.
I spent a misty winter morning exploring the hauntingly beautiful Glen Davis, tucked into the widest canyon in the world. The early morning fog added a touch of mystery to the towering sandstone walls as we set off on the Glen Davis Oil Shale Ruins tour with our tour guide, Graeme, who zipped us around in his electric buggy, fondly known as ‘Sergio’!
If you would like to take a tour of the Glen Davis Shale Oil Ruins, which is situated on private property, please follow this link to make a booking :
https://gdswr.pnddistribution.com/glen_davis-shale-works-tour/
You can choose from a walking tour, or a tour in the comfort of ‘Sergio’, the very capable E.V. transport.
I can recommend both !
Graeme’s knowledge and passion bring the old shale works to life.
Graeme explained that Glen Davis was once a bustling company town, purpose-built in the late 1930s to support Australia’s ambitious shale oil industry. At its peak it had around 1,600 residents – complete with a post office, picture theatre, tennis courts, a bakery, a school and even a dress shop. The shale plant was vital during wartime when oil was scarce, designed to extract oil from the rich seams of oil shale hidden in the cliffs.
Seeing the retorts up close is amazing.
When the works were in full swing, the cinema would run movies twice – once for the single men and later for families – to keep things respectable ! Residents once built a cricket pitch right in the middle of the valley floor, surrounded by towering cliffs, making for quite the dramatic sporting backdrop.
And the tennis courts were so popular they became the town’s social hub, with weekend matches and dances under strings of lights.
From the massive retorts and old furnaces to small artefacts half-buried under leaves, every stop on the tour had a tale. The electric buggy tour was a fantastic way to cover ground, and the drifting mist only deepened the sense of walking through lost history.
Brick Jenga !
Did You Know ?
- Glen Davis once sat at the heart of Australia’s wartime oil supply, hidden away in the world’s widest canyon.
- Movie nights were serious business here.
The Glen Davis picture theatre seated over 300 people. They even ran separate sessions – one for single men, another for families – to keep things proper! - The town loved its social life.
They had tennis courts, weekend dances under string lights, and even a cricket ground surrounded by soaring sandstone cliffs. - When the plant closed in 1952, Glen Davis slowly emptied out.
Many buildings were dismantled or loaded onto trucks and carted away. Today, just haunting ruins remain, wrapped in bush and stories.
We then wound our way out of the valley just in time for a late lunch at the Royal Hotel in Capertee, which has its own slice of history. The Royal is one of Australia’s oldest continuously licensed hotels, dating back to 1840, when it served as a Cobb & Co staging post on the route between Sydney and Mudgee. Over the years it’s been a meeting place for drovers, miners, travellers and locals alike, and it still stands proudly as the heart of tiny Capertee – a perfect spot for a hearty pub meal and a yarn.
Inside the pub, I really appreciated the roaring log fire, a hot meal and the big welcoming smiles from the staff.
Ladies – be sure to check out the amenities….very fancy !
Now, no visit to Capertee would be complete without calling in to see ‘Crafty’ !
Craig, affectionately known as ‘Crafty’, mills, brews, distils, barrels and crafts his own single malt whisky, and creates some interesting gin too. Best described as full flavoured whisky, this Australian style whiskey is artisan craft in the truest sense. Proudly made in small batches in a 970 litre copper still fabricated in NSW, Crafty uses local spring water, NSW malted barley and a range of high quality barrels that provide a variety of very distinct flavours.
Situated in a shed at the back of the pub, it’s a great experience !
From The Paddock is a fantastic café and farmers market, scenically located on a regenerative farm with incredible views across to an isolated monolithic plateau called Mt Gundangaroo.
Just a little way along the Glen Alice Road, in Capertee Valley, Kerrie, Dom and crew welcome travellers and locals to sit down, relax, soak in the view and enjoy refreshments.
I thoroughly recommend the lamb pie with relish and the delicious turmeric latte !
The cafe also has a fabulous selection of locally made products and gifts.
Stay A Little Longer !
If you decide to stay longer, there are lots of great options. Speak to the friendly staff at the Seven Valleys Visitor Centre, or visit our website here: https://sevenvalleys.com.au/accommodation/
🌿 Vicki’s Tips for Visiting Capertee Valley
🍽️ Where to Eat & Drink
Royal Hotel, Capertee
A classic country pub serving hearty meals and cold drinks. Relax on the verandah, meet the locals, and enjoy the historic atmosphere. Great for lunch or a casual dinner after a day exploring.
From the Paddock Café & Farmers Market
Along the Glen Alice Road, in the Capertee Valley, this charming café offers excellent coffee, delicious home-baked treats and local produce. Check ahead for market days to stock up on farm-fresh goodies. I highly recommend the turmeric latte !
Craft Works Distillery
For something unique, stop by Craft Works Distillery to sample their small-batch, locally crafted whisky. Book a tasting experience or drop in for a chat with the friendly team.
🗺️ Things to Do
Explore the Capertee Valley Bird Trail
One of the world’s top birdwatching destinations – keep your eyes peeled for the rare Regent Honeyeater and many other native species.
Book ahead for the Glen Davis Ruins Tour
Discover the fascinating history of the old shale oil works with a guided tour through the ruins. It’s an easy way to dive into local heritage – no big hikes needed.
Scenic Drives & Lookouts
Simply driving through the valley is an experience in itself. Stop at Pearson’s Lookout for sweeping views over the vast valley floor, or take one of the many side roads for new perspectives.
⛽ Important Tip
Make sure you have plenty of fuel, water and snacks before heading deeper into the valley. Services are limited once you leave Capertee village, so top up your tank and stock up when you can.
There is a FREE public phone box near the Glen Davis Campground
✨ Final Thought
Try to catch the early morning mist or stay for the golden hour light – the valley puts on a spectacular show as the sun moves across the cliffs.
